Yesterday I emerged from the Grand Canyon with 30 pounds on my back and a huge sense of accomplishment. All I can say is wow. This hole in the ground is so extreme, so turbulent, so truly old, and yet from the rim, so peaceful. I had no idea what the inner canyon held until we descended to the Colorado on Tuesday.
If you've ever been to Zion or Yosemite, imagine that feeling of the valley looming over you. Huge walls of rock frame the meandering valley floor creating the amphitheater effect. When you're inside the Grand Canyon, what surrounds you is only a sliver of the entire thing. It's like being in a city and only seeing one block, but knowing it stretches for miles around you. While at the park I read it was once described as "a thousand Yosemites." And it truly is.
We backpacked into the canyon for two nights, starting on the South Kaibab trail which was about 7 miles rim to river. At the bottom, there's a very impressive foot bridge for hikers and mules that spans the Colorado. It was built in the 1920s with steel cables carried down by hand. Our campground was quite luxurious, including flush toilets and drinking water! Nearby Phantom Ranch is nestled in the valley along the Bright Angel Creek. They provide lodging and meals to folks who brave the mule ride down. All kidding aside, it is a cool opportunity for people to stay inside the Grand Canyon who can't quite carry all the necessary gear. Brian and I camped next to a talkative, fascinating guy named Ryan for two nights. On our rest day, we did yoga by the river and walked around to stretch our aching legs. Down hill is even tougher on your body than up hill!
On Friday we set off on the Bright Angel Trail at about 8 am. I was rearing to go, so we agreed to "hike our own hike" -- an important understanding for hiking buddies. AKA don't slow or quicken your pace for your group, just meet at check points. So the first 5 miles I was ahead on my own. The methodical swing of a trekking pole, the swish of my pack, the (attempted) evenness of huffing and puffing. Very rhythmic to hike alone. At Indian Garden campground we met for lunch and to slog the final stretch together. I knew we had a long day ahead, but was surprised to learn we were only halfway there. And not nearly halfway in the elevation gain.
The hike was very hard. You climb impossibly vertical stretches of rock. Layer by layer, you climb millions of years in time over only about 5,000 vertical feet. As we reached the top, it was great to see other visitors day hiking the trail. Only slightly disconcerting were the women clad in white outfits with NO WATER asking how far we'd come and wondering aloud if maybe they should turn back. I tried to keep my park ranger commentary to a minimum, but inside was wondering how they could've possibly missed the thousand signs warning them of imminent death. I heard a great saying today... The only thing that can kill you in the desert is too much water or not enough. Luckily we had just the right amount to enjoy an amazing few days, staying hydrated on the shores of a normal flow Colorado.
We saw our friend Ryan on the rim, celebrating his victory same as ours. His was even more impressive though: no tent, no stove. A simple day pack was enough for a sleeping bag and a 6-pack. I'm always terrified and proud of those kinds of backpackers. We hung out and ate Mexican food together before parting ways, plenty of laughter and stories exchanged.
Today we pulled out the maps wondering where to go next. After seeing my excitement at the warmth it promised, Brian agrees to enjoy Vegas for a while before braving Utah's chillier weather. Tonight we sleep in a Lake Mead parking lot before hitting the big city tomorrow. Poolside here I come.